||Sulawesi Tana Toraja Kalosi Washed Peaberry 2017
||Varietal: Typica Peaberry
For a long time I struggled to find a Kalosi that I wanted to stock. For over two and a half years I tasted so many samples but nothing came close to the quality I wanted, so the struggle continued.
Two years ago that streak was broken – but much like buses, I waited for so, so long and then two came along at once! And guess what? They were so good and so popular that they're now with us for a third year!
Sulawesi (Celebes) was influenced and controlled by the Netherlands from 1605 until World War II. In 1669 the Dutch East India Company took control of the trade in Sulawesi. The Dutch built Fort Rotterdam in Ujung Pandang (now Makassar) in the mid-1600s. It was not until 1905 that they finally gained control of the whole island, becoming part of the Dutch state colony of the Netherlands East Indies. The Dutch East India Company was in control of coffee production in Indonesia during most of the 1700s, and introduced Arabica Coffee (Typica) to Sulawesi in 1750.
Indonesian coffee has traditionally been processed with the Giling-Basah (or wet-hulled) method, like Sumatran coffee. In 1976 TOARCO, a Japanese-Indonesian joint-venture introduced the traditional washed process to Sulawesi. The process is similar to that which is found in Central America.
TOARCO owns the Pedamaran plantation, which is at 900–1,250 metres above sea level (m.a.s.l.), and purchases wet parchment (at 40% moisture) from small producers at 1,200–1,800 m.a.s.l.
Coffee is driven to Pedamaran plantation immediately and gets dried on patios at their mill facilities. If a producer wants to sell their parchment coffee to TOARCO, they have to get certified to TOARCO's standards for selective-picking, storage, transportation, moisture levels and so on. Farmers are issued ID cards that allow them to sell their coffee during the week's market at various purchasing points in the Tana Toraja region.
This lot comes from those small producers at the higher altitude areas, rather than from the plantation.
Most of the coffee produced in Tana Toraja is S795 variety, which is a Typica hybrid. This proves once again how much the variety translates into the cup. Indonesia has a great deal of Catimor and a Robusta-heavy Arabica hybrid, but Tana Toraja has kept high-quality varieties.
In the cup this is all about chocolate-coated Brazil nuts and sultanas, with just a hint of tobacco on the finish. It's got a lovely thickness, but a crisp green apple acidity makes it very easy drinking, too.
Location: Pango Pango-Perindingan, Tana Toraja
Altitude: 1,200–1,600 m.a.s.l.
Soil type: Volcanic
Rainfalls in mm/year: 4,700
Main crop: September–March. Fly crop: June–July.
Picking method: Manual
Processing method: Washed
Drying method: Sun-dried on special open-air concrete floors
Varietal: Typica Peaberry
Dark – wait for the first pops of second then drop.
"Quick Look" Guide
Chocolate, Brazil nut, sultana, tobacco, green apple.
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