||Brazil Fazenda Passeio Natural Icatu 2013
||Varietal: 100% Icatu
The Vieira Ferreira family has specialized in coffee production for three generations and is now headed by Adolfo Vieira Ferreira, whose attention to detail and commitment to producing top class specialty coffee is second to none.
In order to guarantee quality, the farm employs a high number of skilled workers to carry out most of the production process by hand; from soil preparation for planting, to hand picking the ripe cherries. In return, the farm looks after its workers - permanent workers and their families live on site and are provided with schooling for their children, professional training, and environmental education.
The farm also takes environmental sustainability seriously and abides by all Brazilian environmental protection laws. Its native forests are set aside as protected reserves and are often visited by tourists, school children, and ecologists. The farm also regularly plants new trees, particularly around its water sources, in order to maintain the local ecosystem.
Passeio’s coffee is harvested only when the cherries reach an advanced stage of ripeness, to avoid processing green beans. All the cherries are hand picked and then natural lots are immediately dried in the sun on the farm’s extensive patios with the cherry still attached, which typically produces a fruitier, wilder cup. The coffee is then kept in wooden resting bins for a minimum of 60 days before the final dry milling, and it's then sorted immediately prior to export.
The farm cultivates several different varietals; this Icatu. This single varietal lot was harvested and processed separately from other lots to maintain its own distinct characteristics.
Icatu is a hybred varietal that came to the forefront in 1985 in Brazil by the agronomico de campinas, but was officially released in 1993. Its origins come from the cultivars of Mundo Novo and Caturra although does have its feet in bourbon and canephora (robusta, but don't be scared), and is by far the most complicated of the varietals I’ve studied.
On the face of it is a perfect varietal, high yielding, pest resistant, quite resistance to leaf rust, and has appeared as a varietal in the cup of excellence on a number of occasions so retains cup quality. But it requires a certain set of circumstances to be tasty, it seems to like altitudes of 1000- 1200 meters above sea level, sheltered from wind because of its hight, and low acidity soils. Luckily Passeio fits all this criteria to take advantage of this interesting varietal, and give us a chance to share it with you.
Just like the rubi natural, in the cup expect a very cleverly done natural, its not obviously funky, think dark fruity chocolate, with a white sugar sweetness that reminded me of candy floss and pink wafer biscuits (I know weird) and a big mouthfeel and body with dried fruit finish.
Coffee: BSCA Fazenda Passeio 100% Icatu Natural
Farm: Fazenda Passeio
Varietal(s): 100% Icatu
Processing: Natural and sun-dried on patios
Altitude: 1,100-1,200 metres above sea level
Owner: Adolfo Henrique Vieira Ferreira
Region: Minas Gerais
Best medium to medium dark.
"Quick Look" Guide:
Dark chocolate, white sugar, candy floss, pink wafers, big mouthfeel.
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